IN THE PAST, people made the most of a seasonal glut of vegetables by preserving them in a variety of ingenious ways. This ensured a year-round supply to jazz up what might otherwise have been a monotonous diet. Today, we preserve fruit and vegetables not out of necessity, but because they taste so delicious; their pungent flavors enliven even the simplest meal. Some restaurants are in the habit of displaying jars of vividly colored pickled vegetables, Mediterranean-style, to entice passers- by. At home, too, beautiful homemade preserves tempt the appetite.

This deliciously fragrant pickle probably originated in Syria, and is still made in one form or another all over the Middle East. You will need baby eggplants-available from Indian, Oriental, and Greek greengrocers as they are preserved whole. This recipe is my mother’s; her pickled eggplants are the best I’ve ever tasted.

Variation

✦ Pickled Eggplants and Beets Pickle the eggplants without the stuffing and add I thinly sliced raw beet, 6 coarsely chopped cloves of garlic, and 2-3 chopped fresh red chilies to the jar.

Special Tips

• Choose firm eggplants with a bright color and taut, shiny, unblemished skin.

• The cider vinegar and the grape leaves help speed up fermentation the in the jar.